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Our Road Trip to Selma and the Tin Man Charlie Lucas

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Sienna and I had visited the Martin Luther King Historic Site and the National Center for Civil and Human Rights in Atlanta for back in February. While we were there we picked up this inspiring set of graphic novels by Congressman John Lewis:

March by John Lewis, Andrew Aydin and Nate Powell
Winner of the National Book Award for Young People’s Literature.
An inside story of the Civil Rights Movement through the eyes of one of its most iconic figures, Congressman John Lewis. 

Sienna read all three books before we even made it home, and she’s reread them so many times I knew we had to make it to Selma, the Edmund Pettus Bridge, Montgomery and any other place we could stop along the way. My plan in Selma was to walk across the bridge and hopefully to see some art by Charlie Lucas. 

I don’t like to make too many plans in advance because I like to let life just happen to us on our road trips and that exactly what happened on this trip. As we drove toward Selma at dusk one night I still didn’t know where exactly we were going to stay. I got onto Instagram and looked up the only hashtag that made sense: #selmaalabama and I kept coming across this one account, AC Reeves, that was posting about the Woolworth Lofts that had been recently renovated as Airbnbs. I contacted AC about staying the night, and she just happened to have availability, but we also immediately hit it off as two passionate artists.  I was floored when she asked if I’d meet her in the morning so she could take me to visit her studio, Charlie Lucas’s studio and her mother Anne Strand’s studio.  I mean….what?!!!

Charlie Lucas, Tin Man

AC only had an hour the next morning so we quickly made the rounds to her studio a few streets over (I can’t believe I didn’t take any photos!). Then we visited Charlie Lucas’s studio and he greeted us at the door with his dog TT. We toured the studio and I was just in awe of everything. Charlie and AC discussing what artists discuss:

An hour or so later I returned to the studio with Brett and Sienna:

TT followed Sienna around the whole time as we looked at art:

And then they just settled down to discuss what girls and dogs discuss:

What a sweet soul:

I didn’t want to leave without a piece of Charlie’s art. We picked out this piece called Key to the World:

I asked Charlie if he could sign his book for us and he sat down at the table and proceeded to draw all sorts of pictures in the book with a Sharpie…and as he did he told story after story:

Sienna was really taken with the Tin Man. She’ll never forget the few hours we spent with him. So of course we definitely have to go back sooner rather than later.

I love this pic so much. Charlie likes dogs. And dogs like him. And we like dogs. So naturally we are just all great friends now. 


My favorite thing about meeting Charlie is his smile and his laugh. I find myself flipping through his book often because of all the honest wisdom in his words about being an artist. This passage below is one of my favorites and the first time I read it I almost started crying…but then laughing all at the same time because it’s all so, so true:

“See, the things people don’t understand about an artist, when the idea come in his head, it faces many other ideas. So the thing is, is to take that one out of the way. That way, the rest of ’em don’t jump on it and go to fighting with it. And then that way you can keep it separated. That’s the discipline within yourself. You got to make sure yourself is disciplined to realize BOOM! I got to take this out right now. 

And then the next one come in there, he ain’t got no room to be arguing with this one over here. Because you done already took him out of the way anyway.

And then that way, it’s more pressure, it’s more stronger and have more reasons to you. And it don’t mess your mind up. 

Art will actually run you crazy if you don’t understand the rhythm in it. The more you learn about it, the more education – it expands you more out. It ain’t like it slows you down, it expands you more out. Every time I see something different, I’m expanded. 

I know how to produce things but I don’t know hot to actually keep up with them.

[…]

I can put things in my head and take them out of my head, but I don’t have no concept how to keep hp with them. 

You only get that flash moment of it and then something else moves right in its place. 

It’s like walking up to the river watching the water flow by you and you can’t just reach in there, say “I’m gonna get this section of water and put it back in the river,” and then walk down the river ten miles and find that piece of water. You can never do that. It’s never the same. It still will be water but it will never be the same. 

All of this is telling me that my mind is free. And it takes a lot to keep your mind free.”  

From Pages 70-72 of Charlie Lucas

 

The Bridge Tender’s House

Another surprise adventure in Selma was visiting artist Anne Strand in her studio which also happens to be the historic Bridge Tender’s House. It’s that cute little yellow cottage sitting on the edge of the Alabama river:

The house was built in 1884 and the old bridge used to pass right next to it. The bridge tender would open the bridge when needed and also collect tolls. In 1940, this bridge was replaced with the Edmund Pettus Bridge. 

Anne Strand happens to be AC’s mother and when we stopped by to meet her early in the morning I overheard a conversation that Anne needed some art brought over from the lofts for an upcoming show and I volunteered to do it…I mean really, I would have opted for nothing else in the day! I brought Brett and Sienna back with me and we got the full cottage tour. I could have moved right in! Those stairs…..

So many vignettes of awesome things around:

Part of the art studio:

The entire house is filled with Anne’s work as well as the best collections of antiques and finds:

The plates and the baskets! I could barely contain myself. 

I love this beautiful floral painting by Anne:

I mean I was trying to act normal but it was a little impossible to not try and peek into every nook and cranny:

You know you want to see more and read more about this place…and you can! It was featured in the The Cottage Journal a few years ago. Read the article here. 

 

The Edmund Pettus Bridge

Our afternoon in Selma was spent walking across the Edmund Pettus Bridge and at the Interpretative Center. We walked silently across, taking in the significance of the site of 1965’s Bloody Sunday and March to Montgomery:

It was important for us to visit the ground zero of the fight for voting rights, and the beginning of the historic march to Montgomery:

There’s a great site for the entire U.S Civil Rights Trail that gives history and landmarks in 14 states that were part of the Civil Rights Movement. You can click here or click the image below:

 

The Woolworth Lofts

I have to show you where we stayed! The Woolworth Lofts. Here’s what the old Selma Drug Store looked like around 1908 when it was built. 

 

In the 1930s the owners wanted to recruit Woolworth’s so they changed the facade:

Here’s the inside before it was renovated:

And now it’s been renovated and the inside is so cute! Our welcome sign from AC:

One of the lofts…hanging on the wall are original ceiling tins from the building before renovation:

I just loved every little touch…the artwork:

The old quilts:

Collections on the walls:

So many cute details everywhere I looked:

We’ll remember our trip to Selma forever and I want to go back soon. It was funny, as we were leaving, we took a backroad and there was this guy sitting in the middle of the road but for as far as I could see there was no roadwork being done…and we were the only car in sight. We sat there for a few minutes before I wondered if we were on one of those “What Would You Do?” episodes.  I finally got out to talk to this guy for a little bit and he assured me there actually WAS roadwork being done a few miles up the road on a bridge. I think we were supposed to just sit there for a while and reflect on our stay a little longer. 

 Here’s a link to Charlie’s book:

Charlie Lucas, Tin Man by Ben Windham

“Charlie Lucas is a self-taught artist. Although he has made art since childhood, only since a debilitating accident in 1984 did Lucas turn to art seriously as a form of personal expression. He has since become recognized nationally and internationally as a great innovator in the field of American folk art.

From his workshop in Pink Lily, Alabama–a rural wonderland of objects, sculptures, paintings, buildings, and installations–Charlie Lucas makes his art from materials that others have discarded (as he himself believes he was once discarded): old tin, bicycle wheels, shovels, car mufflers, tractor seats, metal banding, wire, and gears. His work is visionary, in every sense of the word, each creation the result of an intense communion with his heritage, ancestors, race, family, and his own choices in life. Every work is imbued with a story.

With more than 200 vivid color photographs–of the artist at work, his studio environments, and his finished creations–Tin Man presents Lucas through his own words and stories–his troubled and impoverished childhood, his self-awakening to the depths of his own artistic vision, his perseverance through years of derision and misapprehension, and the salvation that has come through international acclaim and recognition, love of family, and his role as a teacher of children.”

Thank you AC Reeves, Charlie Lucas, Anne Strand and Selma, Alabama. 

Fixing Brickwork and Applying a German Smear Finish

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I loved the old brick on the One Twenty Main building but when we started cleaning the mortar it became apparent that it was in really bad shape and needed to be entirely repointed. 

We decided to do a German Smear finish to fix all the problems at once. German Smear is a just a light coat of mortar applied to the exterior of stone or brick to create a distressed old world look:

Before the finish was started though we had to fix missing and loose brick pieces on the top walls of the building, especially at the corners:

We weren’t sure we were going to be able to match the brick but coincidentally the same day we were thinking about brick replacement my friend Gianna was tearing down her old bakery to make way for a new one. And guess what?! She just happened to have exactly the brick we needed and let us take as much as we wanted. 

The brickwork was fixed and we could move on to fixing the exterior. (I love this photo of Main Street with the old courthouse in the background and the horse trailer going by.)

Here are the main tools used for the finish:

Finishing Trowel

Sponge Float

Stucco Dash Brush or Masonry Brush

Garden Sprayer 

We used Quikrete Stucco Finish Coat (White Base). It took about 12 bags to cover the entire building. 

I love Jaime’s technique for halving the bag quickly. First he scores the bag:

And then folds it in half:

Half the bag goes into the wheelbarrow and water is added:

The mortar is mixed until it’s a thick cake batter consistency:

Jaime did a test wall in the back of the building to see what technique looked the best. First the stucco is applied in a thin layer across the brick using a large finishing trowel:

Then he removed some of the finish before it dried with a sponge and a brush:

The test wall turned out great! 

Tackling the largest wall a few days later:

I caught a pic of some of the guys working on dismantling the old chimneys:

The brick from the chimneys could not be saved…it was crumbling just from touch. It’s 48 years older than the building brick:
 

This side of the building went pretty fast. That’s Russ with the sprayer and he used the large sprayer to wet the brick before the stucco was applied:

The first finished wall:

A few days later the other side and the front were finished. The technique was perfected as Jaime worked and it got faster and faster. He ended up mostly using his gloves to distress the brick and then brushing some of it off:

Here’s a time lapse of the front of the building:

 

 
 
 
 
 
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The funny thing about applying stucco or mortar is that no two people will do it exactly the same. Jaime and Brett both tried to do it but their technique was too different so to keep it consistent Jaime had to complete the entire building. Brett helped speed up the process by keeping the mortar ready.

I just realized I don’t have a photo of the entire building finished but you can at least see the desired effect. It’s since rained and washed off some of the loose mortar and the building looks perfect now. The roof can be finished now and new windows can be installed. Moving right along! 

 
I’ve started to index all posts on our big renovation projects into history, found objects, renovation and DIY categories so they are easy to find:

Sixty-One Park Farmhouse Project

One Twenty Main Farmhouse and Store Project

The Old Depot Project

 

I have a lot to share on the house too but you can also follow along on Instagram as I post almost daily @onetwentymain and @lilblueboo.

West Fork Trail to Pinnacle Peak – Nantahala National Forest

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The best view comes after the hardest climb.

I hiked to Pinnacle Peak a week ago with my friends Erin and Gianna. We thought we were going out for a leisurely little hike and this hike was no joke. We took the West Fork Trail which the sign says is 3.5 miles but we clocked it at almost 3.75 miles each way. 

The first thing we came upon was an enormous boulder called split rock:

That crack is so big that someone could stand in it:

The whole area used to be the watershed for Sylva and it’s now a 1,100 acre park:

There are quite a few waterfalls and springs along the way:

There were signs of spring just starting to emerge:

 

 

 

 

 

This is one of two campsites on the way up. I was really tired at this point…it’s a constant climb.

Towards the top of the hike the trees start to open up to almost a bald:

When we finally reached the top we knew it was worth it. Look at that view! 

There’s nothing I love more than a craggy open peak at the end of a hike!

It was pretty exhilarating to finish such a relentless climb to the top. It was an elevation change of 1,800 feet. 

We ate lunch at the top and it was so nice with a breeze but I do wish I’d remembered a hat because there isn’t any shade. 

It was fun picking out all the Sylva landmarks from this point:

The Plott Balsam mountain range:

A few notes about the hike:

  1. 7.5 miles from parking lot to Pinnacle Peak. 1,800 elevation change. 
  2. A permit is required to hike and it can be picked up at the trailhead. 
  3. Make sure to wear a hard soled hiking shoe or trail runner. The old roadbed is so rocky you’ll have bruised feet if you don’t!
  4. Be careful of drop offs at the top. 

It was an incredible hike but grueling! I might not do it again until the fall.  It’s so beautiful and the view is spectactular but the caveat is that the trail is a an old roadbed and the rocks are huge so you have to pay really close attention to where you step. The view is one of the best around!

You can find more hikes and places I like to explore in Western NC here!

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